It never fails.  Somebody always tries to improve on Mother Nature.  And diamonds with their small size and great value are no exception. Since ancient times,  jewelers,  scientists,  alchemists and sorcerers have been trying to improve the appearance and apparent value of natural diamonds.  Today high tech methods,  like laser drilling,  radiation bombardment and fracture filling,  are enlisted in the effort.  In the past,  shiny foil backings,  a drop of dye on a diamond’s culet,  and other low tech tricks sufficed.  The goal of all this high and low tech wizardry is to dramatically increase a diamond’s apparent value and quality. When you consider purchasing a diamond,  it is important to know whether the gem has been treated.  Be on the look out for the misleading euphemism,  “enhanced”.  A natural,  untreated diamond can be worth significantly more,  than an “enhanced” stone of the same apparent quality.  Treated diamonds are not necessarily bad.  In fact,  many treatments can make an unattractive gemstone more appealing.  But,  because treatments can affect a diamond’s value and durability,  they should be fully disclosed to the consumer. To help you better understand the modern alchemy of diamond treatments,  we created the following guide. “Laser Zapped” DiamondsOver the past several decades laser technology has been applied to the ancient art of diamond cutting.  Lasers are employed in shaping rough diamond crystals,  separating intractable twinned crystals,  and even removing the inclusions within a diamond.  This latter process is known as “laser drilling”. Inclusions are irregularities or small bits of foreign matter that were trapped in a diamond while it was being formed several billion years ago.  The number and size of the inclusions is an important factor in determining a diamond’s clarity.  And,  a diamond’s clarity grade is an important factor in determining its beauty and value. In laser drilling a diamond a beam of high energy light is used to bore a small tunnel from the surface of the diamond to the targeted inclusion.  Then, strong acid is forced down the tunnel to bleach out or burn away the inclusion.  By selectively removing inclusions in this manner,  it is possible to significantly improve the apparent clarity of a diamond. When first introduced,  the use of laser drilling was not adequately disclosed to consumers.  Even Federal Trade Commission (FTC)  guidelines for the jewelry industry did not require disclosure of the practice!  This lack of candor by diamond wholesalers and manufacturers brought an out cry from jewelry retailers and consumers.  Today all reputable jewelry organizations require full disclosure of laser drilling and the FTC is considering a revision of its guidelines. The tell-tale signs of laser drilling can be easily detected with proper training.  The drilling process leaves a small tunnel from the surface of the diamond to the site of the former inclusion.  Although minute,  these tunnels can be readily seen with proper magnification and when you know what to look for. Of course,  the technology of diamond enhancements keeps moving forward.  Now laser-drilling firms are using fracture-filling techniques  (described in the next section)  to hide the laser drill holes. “Fractured-Filled” DiamondsAll diamonds have minute fractures and fissures.  When the fissures are large and numerous they can detract from a diamonds beauty and value.  In lower grade diamonds these fissures can give the diamond a cloudy,  whitish appearance and may be visible to the naked eye. In the late 1980s a new process was developed to hide the fissures.  Known as “fracture filling” the process involves filling the fissures with a glass-like substance.  Although the composition of the filler is kept a secret,  it is formulated to mimic the color and optical properties of the diamond being treated.  As a result,  the fissures in a fractured-filled diamond become less visible. One concern with all diamond treatments is the permanence of the enhancement.  Diamonds may be forever,  but glass-like fillers probably are not.  Under the heat and pressure experienced when a jewel is being cleaned or repaired,  the glass-like filler can become discolored and even breakdown.  As a result,  the fractures reappear and the beauty of the diamond is diminished.  It is important to inform anyone working on a fractured-filled diamond that the stone has been treated and needs special handling. As with all gemstone treatments,  fracture filling should be fully and candidly disclosed to consumers.  Because fracture filling can improve the apparent clarity and value of a diamond,  consumers need to be cautious.  Unfortunately,  there have been cases of fractured treated diamonds being sold as more valuable,  natural gemstones. Whether you are buying a diamond from a trusted local jeweler,  over the Internet,  or from a friend “in the business”,  you should verify that the diamond has not been fractured filled or otherwise treated.  If you have any doubt,  have the diamond evaluated by an independent,  qualified gemologist. “Color Bleached” DiamondsIn early 1999,  General Electric (GE)  and Lazare Kaplan Inc. (LKI)  announced a new treatment for improving the color of natural diamonds.  Although the details of the process remain a secret,  it appears to involve recreating the high temperatures and pressures that existed when diamonds first formed deep within the earth.  As a result of this treatment,  the apparent color of a diamond can be improved by several color grades. When first introduced it was reported that the treatment was permanent and largely undetectable.  Initially,  LKI suggested that because the treatment was permanent,  disclosure to jewelers and the diamond buying public was not required.  People suspected that LKI had adopted an attitude of “If you can’t catch us,  we don’t have to tell you.”  LKI hoped to sell the color treated stones for close to the same price as untreated diamonds. The initial lack of disclosure with regard to these color-treated diamonds created a furore within the jewelry industry and among consumers.  As with any gemstone treatment,  whether detectable or not,  full disclosure is essential.  As a result,  LKI has agreed to engrave the girdle of each color treated diamond with the initials “GE POL”.  This is a positive first step,  but offers only partial protection for consumers.  The markings on the girdle can be easily polished off by an unscrupulous seller. To date,  there is no definitive method for detecting GE-treated diamonds.  When purchasing a diamond it is important to keep in mind that there is a possibility,  although small, that it has been color enhanced. Consumer Beware!You now have a good overview of the more common methods used to artificially enhance the appearance of natural diamonds.  Each of these methods can improve the beauty of less desirable stones and also make the them appear more valuable.  The challenge is to separate the treated stones from the natural,  unadulterated diamonds.  You do not want to be sold a treated stone when you are seeking a natural diamond.  Similarly,  if you choose to purchase a treated diamond,  you do not want to pay too much. There are several helpful guidelines that will help you face this challenge: 1.  Diamond treatments are a fact of life.  Any knowledgeable seller will be happy to discuss and educate you about the various treatment processes.  If they are not,  then they are either unknowledgeable about diamonds or they are trying to deceive you.  In either,  case you do not want to do business with them. 2.  When purchasing a diamond or other expensive gemstone,  become educated about the market and comparative shop.  If you do not have the time,  hire a qualified broker who will act on your behalf and help you find the best gemstone that matches your needs and pocket book. 3.  If a diamond is being sold as untreated,  have the seller put it in writing. 4.  Conversely,  if you choose a diamond that has been treated,  have the seller document in writing the nature and extent of the treatment.  Any special care or handling required by the diamond should be noted.  In case the treatment is not permanent have the seller guarantee in writing that they will restore the diamond to its current state,  if the treatment becomes compromised. 5.  Finally,  if you have any concerns or questions about a diamond or other gemstone have it examined by an independent professional.  A qualified gemologist/appraiser can help you determine whether the diamond has been treated and give you an accurate estimate of its value.

The best protection for the jewelry consumer is education and the assistance of an independent expert.  By following the above guidelines, you will be able to avoid the traps presented by diamond treatments.

The Hope Diamond is one of the world’s most infamous diamonds. The Hope Diamond has went through many changes throughout its history.  It has changed ownership many times including many famous owners of royal blood.  It has also changed appearance as various jewelers created different settings for the Hope Diamond.

The Hope Diamond is unique in part because it is has a blue color to it.  The blue color is created by tiny amounts of the element boron.  The diamond is believed to come from mines of Golconda, India and was originally called Tavernier Blue after Jean Baptiste Tavernier.  At this time the diamond was 112 3/16 carats and roughly cut into a triangle shape.  However, the diamond is now a 45.52 carat pendant on a necklace.

During the life of the Hope Diamond it has seen many hands.  The first known owner is Jean Baptiste Tavernier.  However, it has also been owned by the likes of King Louis XIV of France.  It has not been proved or disproved, but some suspect it was also owned by King George IV of the United Kingdom.

One of the most important owners of the Hope Diamond was, of course, Henry Philip Hope who gave the diamond its name.  The diamond remained with the Hope family from 1824 to 1901.  Lord Francis, the grandson, was only allowed to sell the diamond after obtaining the courts permission to do so.

After the Hopes were forced to sell the Hope Diamond it was again doomed to travel the globe from owner to owner.  It passed through the hands of Adolf Weil, Simon Frankel, Salmon Habib, and Paul Cartier.  It than landed a socialite named Evalyn Walsh McLean who wore it on many occasions until her death in 1947.  It than went to her grandchildren but was once again sold to pay debts.  Harry Winston was the next to acquire the Hope Diamond and showed off the piece for many years before he donated it to the Smithsonian.

The Hope Diamond reached the Smithsonian on November 10, 1958.  Since that time the diamond has only left on four occasions. These occasions included a visit the Louvre in Paris in 1962, a trip to the South African Rand Easter Show in 1965, and twice in 1984 and 1996 the Hope Diamond visited Harry Winston once just for cleaning.

Despite being adored by many, the Hope Diamond is said to be cursed.  Believers of the curse state that Tavernier stole the diamond from the Hindu Idol of the goddess Sita.  It was said to be one of her eyes.  However, there is no evidence of this and a second diamond eye has never been found.  

Tragedies that have befallen Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette have been attributed to the curse of the Hope Diamond.  During the history of the Hope Diamond legend people have also added their own fictitious owners that each had incredible misfortunes of their own.  Though these tails just add to the charm of the Hope Diamond, they are largely exaggerated.  Many owners, including Harry Winston, have had successful and long lives.

Diamond jewelry in the form of diamond rings, diamond earrings, diamond pendants, diamond necklaces, diamond tiaras and diamond bracelets are some of the most sought after gemstone creations. Some practical knowledge can help people purchase a genuine piece of diamond jewelry at a fair price. Many people consider Diamond jewelry to be the ultimate adornment for a woman. Diamond jewelry is a classic ornament and according to most people, it can never go out of style. While buying diamond jewelry it is significant to keep some essential factors in mind, such as the cut and carat of the diamond, diamond shape, and diamond colors. Diamonds can come in more shapes than any other gem. Diamond jewelry with stunning center pieces are available in round, emerald cut, heart, marquise, oval, princess, radiant, and trillion shaped. Diamonds as accents are frequently found in small round shapes and baguettes. Popular earrings are generally round or princess cut, some might even come in fancier shapes. Though diamond is considered to be one of strongest matter on earth, a hard blow can cause the diamond to chip off. If proper care is taken the diamond jewelry can last a lifetime. To clean diamond jewelry, it is better to use water and a little bit of ammonia with a soft brush while being careful of the metal setting. Perfumes, lotions, sweat, and contact with cleaning liquids can make the surface of the stones dull. It is important to store diamond jewelry in separate velvet bags, so that they do not get scratches. It is also wise to keep the diamond jewelry in its original velvet box. This will ensure a long lasting wear. If you would like to learn more visit our jewelry 101 education section.

One of the most valuable traits of a diamond is its clarity. However, many diamonds that have imperfections are artificially manipulated to increase this trait, this process is called clarity enhancement and while it may make a diamond look aesthetically pleasing, it is not always beneficial for the buyer.You may be wondering what all the fuss is about improving a diamond’s clarity. The truth of the matter is that a diamond is more valuable when it has not been artificially augmented. Besides general polishing and diamond cleaning, any other artificial enhancements to improve the color or clarity of the diamond will result in a lower valued stone. For some people buying a clarity enhanced stone is attractive, they purchase a beautiful looking stone for much less than an untouched diamond, however the problem lies with shady diamond salesmen that will fraudulently sell you a diamond that has been artificially manipulated for the same price as an untouched stone. This is why it is extremely important to understand diamonds and the processes in which a diamond can be clarity enhanced so that you can make an educated decision when buying a top quality stone. There are a few ways in which the clarity of a diamond can be manipulated. One of the more common methods is to drill a tiny whole in the diamond in order to remove an inclusion which is minerals or elements that can cause discoloring. Other methods include filling cracks or fissures in a diamond with sealant and color treatments that try to improve a diamonds color or to give the diamond an exotic hue. Possibly the most common way a diamond is clarity enhanced is by drilling. Many diamonds that are the right size and color but have inclusions which are generally iron oxide or more commonly called rust usually are candidates for drilling. Drilling is usually done with a laser which neatly makes a small hole down through the diamond to the inclusion. Acid is usually used to remove the rust from the diamond making it clear of any inclusions. At this point the diamond may be left with a small fracture or it may be filled, usually with heavy glass that is unnoticeable to the naked eye. This technique of filling fissures, drilled holes and fractures is known as fracture filling and can take place in diamonds that were drilled to remove inclusions or diamonds with small fissures. Instead of heavy glass, small cracks and fissures can also be filled with tiny diamond vapor depositions which are almost undetectable as well. If a diamond has had other augmentation done to it besides basic cutting, polishing and cleaning it must be openly stated with full disclosures according to FTC rules. Although diamond augmentation must be disclosed to the buyer, unfortunately many diamonds that have had fracture filling, laser drilling or other types of treatments are never disclosed to the buyer by shoddy diamond traders and the consumer pays full price for a diamond that in reality is worth much less. If you are planning on buying a diamond it is extremely important to be aware of clarity enhanced diamonds and detecting if a diamond you intend to purchase has been augmented in any way. Many times a diamond will be extremely difficult to detect if it is an enhanced diamond. If you look closely you may be able to see a small drill hole from laser drilling or you may notice cloudy spots that may indicate enhancements. However, your best bet is for you to ask the diamond seller if you can have it appraised by an independent appraising firm. Having a gemologist look at your diamond and do certain tests to determine if a diamond is enhanced is the best course of action for any consumer buying an expensive diamond, this way you can usually tell with high certainty that your diamond has not been enhanced in any way.

Radiant Cut Diamond

- Radiant cut diamonds come in a wonderful fancy cut diamond shape. While not as popular as the other fancy cut diamonds, radiant cut diamonds are adored by many diamond connoisseurs. Here are some tips on purchasing a radiant cut diamond. A radiant cut diamond is a squarish cut diamond that is characterized by trimmed corners. The radiant cut diamond is an extremely versatile cut diamond that can be set in many different ways, however it is usually the centerpiece, with beautiful baguette or round side diamonds complimenting it. While the radiant cut diamond is usually cut to be squarish at about 1:1.05, there are degrees of rectangularity that it may employ. For instance, a ratio of 1:1.1 or 1:1.2 is not uncommon and it is really up to the purchaser to determine what exact shape is preferred. Due to its large facet, it is important to consider a stone that has a great color and clarity rating. Like other similar cuts, the radiant cut diamond will show inclusions and imperfections very easily so make sure the stone is of the right quality before purchasing. Radiant cut diamonds are great for engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as other high quality jewelry. If you are unsure of how to rate a radiant cut diamond, it is always advised that you have an independent diamond appraiser appraise the diamond to determine it value. If you are interested in squarish or rectangular diamond cuts, you might also want to consider the cushion cut diamond, emerald cut diamond and the Asscher cut diamond.